August, 2009

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Boerboel Proof Crates?

Friday, August 28th, 2009

I’ve posted this elsewhere, but I’m adding it here so I can keep track of it better myself. Basically, the obvious problem is that Boerboels are big and strong. No kidding, right? :) Training can control them, but the one place where I have had issues in the past is crates: Sure a dog can be taught to “love their crate” but if they end up with a case of diarrhea while you’re off doing chores, they’d rather “pop the crate” and find a suitable (non-crate) location, rather than soil that loved crate. While cleaning out a soiled crate is a terrible thing to come home to, it’s far better than having dogs who you are trying to gently acclimatize to each other ending up in the same room without supervision. Thus my search for a Boerboel proof crate.

Here are a few options I have found or had suggested (obviously, I do not yet own any, thus cannot say if the companies or products are of good quality — buyer beware!):

1) This place seems to have some cool crates, from this $540US folding model (which make me a bit nervous that it could be folded with a raging dog inside :O ):

… to this one which seems more robust, and fits well into an SUV or van, but which is $995US (ouch!):

Then there are these guys, who have a possibly good crate, at a great price:

And PetEdge has this one with a fair compromise of price ($379US for the large) and quality (good reviews):

(seems to also be available from these guys for $375)

The Issues of Spay and Neuter

Friday, August 28th, 2009

It is “common knowledge” that you should spay or neuter your dog to prevent a raft of issues, from saving your male dog from certain death from testicular or prostate cancer, to the almost certain demise of your bitch to mammary tumors or pyometra. Then, of course, there’s the requirement that a dog (especially males) MUST be neutered to eliminate aggression issues (as a total aside, this is likely untrue, as this CO study shows no statistical difference in bites between neutered and non-neutered dogs). Many of us have visited the vets office, and have been asked the not-so-open ended question, “When exactly WILL you want to schedule an appointment to have your dog ‘fixed’?”

It may vary by country or region, but in my part of Canada, people who do not spay or neuter are considered negligent or neglectful, cheap, or somehow oddly unable to remove a dogs “bits” due to some misguided weak-kneed inability to “do the right thing” because it makes them queasy. There may be a bit of slack given to “legitimate breeders”, but not a lot.

The question is rarely asked, however, “is the ‘common knowledge’ actually based on science?”

In 2007 (a number of vet visits ago :) ) Laura J. Sanborn at Rutgers University did a rather comprehensive review of 50 peer reviewed studies, and the introduction shows how the data is at odds with popular lore:

More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

I find it interesting that vets either do not seem to have access to this study, or have apparently not heeded it. In fact, I have postulated that there is a coincident relationship between a veterinarians’ desire to get you to spay and neuter and the problem of total lack of revenue that a dog owner poses outside of the typical vaccination visit. That’s a bit “conspiracy theory” like, but it seems plausible. I suspect, however, that it’s really just the case that — with the prevalence of information on the internet that is mired in the old thinking — they are not seeing any demand to reduce the number of operations.

As an example of this here is an ASPCA link showing the top 10 reasons for spay/neuter (my comments are in red below each):

Not convinced yet? Check out our handy—and persuasive—list of the top 10 reasons to spay or neuter your pet!

1. Your female pet will live a longer, healthier life.
Spaying helps prevent uterine infections and breast cancer, which is fatal in about 50 percent of dogs and 90 percent of cats. Spaying your pet before her first heat offers the best protection from these diseases.

Apparently not that clear cut, according to the above study.

2. Neutering provides major health benefits for your male.
Besides preventing unwanted litters, neutering your male companion prevents testicular cancer, if done before six months of age.

Half true, at best: they conveniently fail to point out the potential detriments, which actually seem to outweigh the positives.

3. Your spayed female won’t go into heat.
While cycles can vary, female felines usually go into heat four to five days every three weeks during breeding season. In an effort to advertise for mates, they’ll yowl and urinate more frequently—sometimes all over the house!

True. (Finally :) ). Though a little bit dramatic, there, no? I guess that was more of a cat related note, tho’.

4. Your male dog won’t want to roam away from home.
An intact male will do just about anything to find a mate! That includes digging his way under the fence and making like Houdini to escape from the house. And once he’s free to roam, he risks injury in traffic and fights with other males.

Orthogonal (not related) really: If you have a large breed, such as a Boerboel, if he roams you are probably being a negligent owner. Whether they roam with or without intact sexual organs is functionally irrelevant to the problem.

5. Your neutered male will be much better behaved.
Neutered cats and dogs focus their attention on their human families. On the other hand, unneutered dogs and cats may mark their territory by spraying strong-smelling urine all over the house. Many aggression problems can be avoided by early neutering.

Um. Look, I’m not neutered, and I do a pretty good job of focusing my attention on my family. :)

I think this is similar to the above: If you cannot control your dog to stop “marking” you have a training issue, not a medical one (and ask around with people in the dog world who have Boerboels or other large breeds and see how many have dogs that “mark” within the house — after a couple of corrections, anyway. I don’t think they’d get away with that behavior very long. :P )

6. Spaying or neutering will NOT make your pet fat.
Don’t use that old excuse! Lack of exercise and overfeeding will cause your pet to pack on the extra pounds—not neutering. Your pet will remain fit and trim as long as you continue to provide exercise and monitor food intake.

Fair enough – what they are saying is that ya, drive will drop, so modify food intake. That works.

7. It is highly cost-effective.
The cost of your pet’s spay/neuter surgery is a lot less than the cost of having and caring for a litter. It also beats the cost of treatment when your unneutered tom escapes and gets into fights with the neighborhood stray!

True, assuming you’re negligent enough to let your animals wander, again.

8. Spaying and neutering your pet is good for the community.
Stray animals pose a real problem in many parts of the country. They can prey on wildlife, cause car accidents, damage the local fauna and frighten children. Spaying and neutering packs a powerful punch in reducing the number of animals on the streets.

This is actually a point I sort of see: Basically (and this is a theme to a few of my answers) if you’re not astute enough to keep control of your animals, you may want to either do a spay/neuter, or — better yet — get a fish tank and some goldfish. They are easier to control, and if you can keep them alive for a few years, move up to a gerbil, etc.

9. Your pet doesn’t need to have a litter for your children to learn about the miracle of birth.
Letting your pet produce offspring you have no intention of keeping is not a good lesson for your children—especially when so many unwanted animals end up in shelters. There are tons of books and videos available to teach your children about birth in a more responsible way.

Absolutely true. There are enough dogs and cats out there, we don’t need random breeding just to do a show kids what they can see on YouTube, or at a breeder’s.

10. Spaying and neutering helps fight pet overpopulation.
Every year, millions of cats and dogs of all ages and breeds are euthanized or suffer as strays. These high numbers are the result of unplanned litters that could have been prevented by spaying or neutering.

Absolutely true. Same as above.

I guess my point in the above is that — assuming you’re an owner or prospective owner of a breed as substantial as a Boerboel — the CONTROL of said dog is more important than the medical altering of that dog. The side effects of the procedures are — according to the study — not insignificant, and if you’re doing it mostly because you’re expecting a magic reduction in aggression or because that will make them suddenly a “better dog”, it may not work out as expected. As for health effects, read carefully and evaluate how it applies to you.

From the conclusions of the study:

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may  exceed the associated health problems in many (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the  odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the dog and the relative risk  of various diseases in the different breeds.
The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

Consider taking this information to the vets office with you, and if you are going to spay/neuter, consider waiting until the age of two when bone growth, etc. will have stabilized.

[edited 20090828 3:07 - to redo meandering conclusion slightly :) ]

How Pit Bull Bans Affect Boerboel Owners

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Continuing on my “don’t ignore Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) just because your breed isn’t on the list” theme, this interesting article was brought to my attention by @KDelise of the National Canine Research Council (NCRC). Basically, Denver has what seems to be a really vague evaluation form that can be used to slot a lot of different tan coloured dogs (hey, what colour are Boerboels, typically? Oops.) into a death sentence.

According to NCRC:

…Recently, a woman driving with her dog stopped to let her dog relieve itself near a field. She knew about Denver’s breed ban, but she was unaware that she had crossed over into the Denver city limits (she was right on the border of another jurisdiction and Denver). Her dog was seized by officials and taken to animal control. At animal control the dog was evaluated using the Pit bull Evaluation Form. Three “experts” each filled out a form.

Denver’s holds that if at least two of the “experts” say it’s a pit bull, then the dog is a pit bull and very well may be put to death.

Full story here.

Basically, remember that:

  1. If you are traveling in or near a BSL area, bring proof (SABT documentation, etc.) that your Boerboel is indeed a Boerboel
  2. Be active in fighting BSL. Once it is enacted, it is very difficult to remove, and once a Pit Bull ban is enacted, it’s a very slight modification to add other breeds of the month, such as Rottweilers, German Shepherds, or, of course, Boerboels.

Running with Dogs

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

I remember coming home once to the clicheic dog-shredded living room, as seen on TV — with the smiley, happy dog who was so proud of that mess wagging a tail in the middle of it. My wife was already a bit less of a dog lover than I was, so to know that her very carefully chosen throw cushions, her magazines, even her (oh noes!) shoes, had been diced into little gooey bits all over the house — meant that for me to keep myself out of the dog house, I knew I would have to do … something with his energy.

That’s when I started running with dogs.

I didn’t really know what I was doing, so here are some pointers I developed:

  • Do not run any significant distance with dogs under 12 months. I have not seen any cited research on this, but the thinking is that that sort of repetitive exercise is allegedly bad for pups. Why risk it?
  • The human “10% rule” is probably good for dogs, too. With human running training, it is often cited that you need to be careful to reduce injuries by only increasing distance or intensity by 10% per week. With dogs, they are arguably better able to recover, thus you can probably increase this a bit, but it’s still a good guideline
  • Recovery is Important. I recall reading in running literature that human sports studies have pegged recovery time at 36-48 hours for muscles and connective tissues. I suspect that dogs are quicker to recover, but the point is, they need time, too.
  • Heat and Dehydration Kills. I actually do not know the point where a dog is at the edge of heat exhaustion, but having been at that edge myself during training, I know that it’s a fine line, easily crossed. With my dogs, I make a point of not taking risks. If it’s hot, we may run a bit, but I have a rural route that allows me to incorporate some “water features” (that is, ponds and/or lakes) within less than a couple KMs (a mile). I have longer haired breeds, who I would not allow out above certain temperatures. On the other hand the Boerboels are not as heat coddled, but they also are not as endurance adapted as some other breeds, so I don’t tend to go as far with them in distance.
  • Listen to your dog. Dogs are subtle. If they’re tired or sore, they often keep that information “close to the chest”: Watch them carefully for limps, lagging, stress. Just stop. It’s not important enough to take a risk with them.
  • Let dogs be dogs. While you may need to train for a 5k race, they need to follow their own training levels, and go pee, too. I tend to allocate break time in a couple points of the run, often at the same places so they know not to attempt to stop early, etc.
  • Clean up after your pets. I take bags, but when you’re running, what to do with them?? Either bring a backpack (and make sure that bag is not leaky. :P ) or I try to “depot” the bag along the route to be picked up on the way back, etc. (easier for me to do due to rural routes). When I lived in the city, I had plotted paths that took me past city garbages, to allow a minimal run with a lumpy bag.
  • If you need to do hill repeats, etc. consider tying up your dog to give them a break. I will take my dogs to a hill, tie the older, out of shape ones up, take the younger ones, and start the repeats, then, as the dogs get tired, tie them up, too, and repeat alone. Only works if you can tie them up safely, etc.
  • Don’t run with more than two dogs. I know others do, but for big dogs like Boerboels, three is just not managable for me when a rabbit runs across the path, etc. I take turns, thus giving me more of a workout than the dogs, too.
  • Have fun. I do my more serious training without a dog. I love my dogs, but it’s not fair to them to do time trials with me. There’s always another time to take them and have fun with them.

This did eventually help calm my destructo dog, but then again, it was also me who got a lot of exercise, so maybe my calm (tired?) attitude calmed him down… No matter, we had fun, and my wife got to go shopping for new shoes, so it all worked out.

:)

Sleeping Boerboel, escaping kitten… ;)

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
Sleeping Boerboel, escaping kitten :)

Sleeping Boerboel, escaping kitten :)

Pedigree Databases

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Boerboels, as with all dogs, have a pedigree that traces the breedings back into the past. Unlike the AKC or CKC dogs we are familiar with in North America, Boerboels are registered via a South African registry, typically the SABT (sometimes called SABBA) or, to a lesser extent, the EBBASA (apparently, more common in Europe). These pedigrees can be views online via these registries:

Anasha’s Pedigree of the BoerboelPedigree Database — A great site with over 35000 dogs registered, including SABT scores, etc.

MDB Pedigree DatabaseA newer database, from Molosser De Boeren (“The Farmers’ Mastiff”)