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Postpartum Injection of Oxytocin for Canines

Wednesday, August 25th, 2010

Boerboel

Boerboel Bitch, in early Pregnancy

[as always, this is provided without warranty or guarantees - check with vets before doing anything based on what I speculate on here on my site... (citations are in brackets where provided)]

One of the cool things about knowing that I don’t know everything is that you get to ask people for advice and you’re totally open to everything you hear. One of the interesting things I heard from an experienced large-scale, large-breed canine breeder recently is that they will routinely self administer a hormone called Oxytocin to females once all the pups have been born. I have also spoken to other breeders who do not do any such thing without a vet present. Some of these differences are regional (different countries and states have different rules about who can administer hormones, etc.) and some are experience based.

So I decided to check the books.

My idiot’s one sentence simplification is that:

Oxytocin is a natural part of the birthing process, and is used as a signal to both start contractions (my fuzzy parental memories recollect that this is what is used to induce labor in pregnant humans who have gone too far “past the due date” as well) and to ensure they finish fully. It also plays an important role in mammary function (“milk ejecting actions”, as described by Shirley Johnston, et. al. (1)).

Why administer extra when there’s a chance the bitch has already produced plenty of her own? Because the theory is that if you really love your bitch, you want to be sure they finish all the contractions, thus expelling all the remaining placental material, and thus preventing a tragically common and often fatal problem with bitches called pyometra (a nasty uterine infection).

However, the practice, while apparently relatively common, is not without naysayers:

If the pups are alive and well there is no need to administer oxytocin to the bitch postpartum to enhance uterine involution. If the fetuses were delivered dead or the pups die shortly following delivery, the administration may be indicated in order to assure normal involution. The nursing stimulus of the fetuses is an adequate stimulus for oxytocin release. (2, my bolding)

Finally, here are a few (my selection) other indications where you may be likely to run into the use of the hormone as part of your whelp (3):

- In evacuating tissue and debris from the uterus in cases of pyometra or endometritis.- For preventing or controlling postpartum uterine hemorrhage.

- To aid in evacuation, debridement and drainage in mastitis.- Initiation of lactation following parturition.

- To induce labor.

- Post operative contraction of the uterus following caesarian section.

So, what will I do? I guess I’m going to take a bit of an educated risk: I have a certain faith in the Boerboel as a dog who hasn’t had the “maternity bred out of them” yet, and assume that they will be more robust than the typical dog, thus I will wait and see.

Unfortunately, there’s still a certain flaw in that “evolution” logic: If a mother has a litter of pups, and dies of that process after the pups are weaned, is there a negative pressure, evolutionarily speaking? Or, let me put it this way: If you have a mother who has 15 pups, and the mother dies of pyometra, why would the breed still not survive on the strength of the 15 remaining pups and all of their litters, assuming they live until weaning? Sure, it would be better if the mom survived to have another litter, but she could well be a casualty of Darwin to know that the line has carried on with those 15.

And, as a counter argument (and further confusion) to the robustness argument, my bitch is apparently expecting a small litter, thus leading one to wonder if the “nursing stimulus” is possibly related to the number of nursing pups a dam has. I could not find research on answers to that question.

So the current plan is that I’m not going to administer it myself, but I am keeping my vet’s phone number handy. :)

UPDATE: I was sold on having it on hand. Too many breeders pointed out that the cost of Pyo is way higher than the (approx.) $20US that the injection costs, and that is only if she survives the Pyo (which is not at all a given, of course. If you’ve read my article on spay/neuter you’d note that Pyo is a common killer of intact bitches even though a spay trades off other health issues.)

Sources:

(1) Canine and Feline Theriogenology, (Saunders, 2001) Shirley D. Johnston, Margaret V. Root Kustritz, Patricia Schultz Olson, p.121

(2) PARTURITION (conference proceedings), Walter R. Threlfall, DVM, MS, PhD, Diplomate, American College of Theriogenologists
Theriogenology Area

(3) Synthetic Oxytocin Fact Sheet at Drugs.com (“Oxytocin Injection for Veterinary Use”)

Vet > Oxytocin Injection (Canada)

Oxytocin Injection (Canada)

This page contains information on Oxytocin Injection for veterinary use.
The information provided typically includes the following:

  • Oxytocin Injection Indications
  • Warnings and cautions for Oxytocin Injection
  • Direction and dosage information for Oxytocin Injection
<script type=”text/javascript” charset=”ISO-8859-1″ src=”http://as.webmd.com/js.ng/Params.richmedia=yes&transactionID=19818831&tile=19818831&site=2&affiliate=38&xpg=&pos=121″></script>

Oxytocin Injection

This treatment applies to the following species:

Manufacturer: Bimeda-MTC

Oxytocin Injection Usp

Sterile

Veterinary Use Only

Synthetic

DIN 00141828

Description

OXYTOCIN INJECTION (Synthetic) contains 20 USP Units of oxytocic activity per mL in a clear, sterile, colourless aqueous solution. It is a polypeptide of 8 amino acids chemically synthesized from optically active amino acids.

The clinical and pharmacologic properties of OXYTOCIN INJECTION (Synthetic) are identical with those of natural oxytocin.

Preservative: 0.5% w/v chlorobutanol.

Oxytocin Injection Indications

As an aid in the treatment of the following conditions in cows, mares, sows, ewes, dogs and cats:1. In dystocia due to uterine inertia.

2. In evacuating tissue and debris from the uterus in cases of pyometra or endometritis.

3. For preventing or controlling postpartum uterine hemorrhage.

4. Uncomplicated agalactia in sows.

5. To aid in the correction of a prolapsed uterus.

6. To aid in evacuation, debridement and drainage in mastitis.

7. Initiation of lactation following parturition.

Puppies, tails, and claws…

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Our primary purpose here has been to just fill a void on information on Boerboels in Canada, but we have now moved ever so slightly into the role of being a breeder. I say slightly, as there is a love of the breed and a desire to preserve certain traits and lines, but work in the rescue world has left everyone a bit jaded: There is both demand for quality, SABT registered puppies, and a large demand to re-home these dogs once they become troublesome teens, as all dogs become eventually. For that reason, we’re happy that our litter – quite possibly our only litter, ever – is apparently to be very small. We only saw one pup on the ultrasound, and there could be one or two more hiding around there, but we have currently refused to take any deposits at this time (we are taking names, though, if you are interested in being in the wings.)

So, when the litter is that small, how seriously do you need to take the kennel thing? Very seriously. :) We have registered our kennel name with the SABT, we have written up our contracts and health guarantees (even though we very well may not need them) and of course our own very unique lifetime return policy of which we are very proud: We will pay $100 if you return our dog at any time for any reason at any age, no questions asked. While most people just use a threat of a contract breach as a stick, we decided to be innovative and throw a carrot in there as well, as we just want to be sure a dog from our kennel comes back instead of being destroyed or bought by a broker, etc.

We also needed to make some decisions about our kennels’ stance on “puppy mods”.

In fewer and fewer countries, Boerboels have tails docked. Sometimes they also have dew claws removed. It’s the old “tails and claws done” thing you’ll see on the Rottie advertisements. Well, there were reasons for doing the tails and claws, and I won’t get into them all here, but I would like to point out that Canada is one of a shrinking number of countries that allows this practice, so for that reason alone, I will not be docking tails or removing dew claws. Sure, both those appendages can be injured in certain circumstances, I understand the risks, but I don’t really see the logical leap to removal, considering how small the downside is.

On the upside, dogs with dew claws use them constantly in play and while eating. If you’ve ever tried to muzzle a Boerboel, you’d know the power of that dew claw. They only leave the muzzle on because they are not trying hard enough. If they really want it off, make no mistake: it’s off. :)

Having a long tail increases the ease of humans to “hear” what a dog is saying, in my opinion. It’s pretty tough to teach young kids to read earset in a floppy eared dog, but you can teach tail signals pretty easily when there’s more than a stub moving around — or standing strait up.

I will miss the stubby tails, though, as there’s something cute about that distinctive knocking sound (not a thump, but a rap) of a big dog wagging his or her stubby tail against a wall when you walk into a room.

Over the next few weeks I’ll do some pregnancy and litter updates, if all goes well.

Ron

What is the cost of that sniffle?

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

I saw this on Kijiji.ca today (basically like Craigslist.com for Canadians):

hi there I have 2 siamese cats that need to go asap please help me out here and take one of them they have to go my daughter is getting sicker the longer there here I’ve called every where to help me and every where’s full and most places right now have a wait list…. I have a male not fixed chocolate point 13 months old up to date on shots and NOT de-clawed and a seal point 18 months not fixed and not de-clawed up to date on shots MUST GO ASAP please make me an offer no reasonable offer will be turned down THEY ARENT FREE NOR WILL I TAKE THAT OFFER …….. IF THERE NOT GONE BY TOMORROW THEY WILL BE PUT DOWN SORRY I CANT KEEP THEM AND I DONT CARE WHAT ANY ONE THINKS YOUR RUDE EMAILS ARENT NEEDED I KNOW WHAT IM DOING BUT MY DAUGHTER IS REALLY SICK I HAVE TO PROTECT MY DAUGHTER AND HELP HER GET BETTER PLEASE IM BEGGING YOU HELP ME OUT HELP THEM OUT………… I DO HAVE PHOTOS THAT I CAN SEND PLEASE DONT EMAIL ME UNLESS YOU FOR REAL ABOUT HELPING THESE BABIES OUT…… THANK YOU FOR EVEN THINKING ABOUT HELPING

After my rage subsided, I decided to try another tact: Research. So, here’s what I know.

Studies such as this one show that exposure is actually the best cure for allergies:

Conclusions Specific immunotherapy seems to be an effective treatment for cat allergy. Allergy to cats is common and often poorly controlled on conventional pharmacotherapy. Although cat allergy has not traditionally been considered as a valid indication for immunotherapy in the UK, it should now be considered as a legitimate treatment, especially for those who are unable to avoid exposure.

I know that may seem counter intuitive, but frankly, it’s the old “whatever doesn’t kill you makes you stronger” thing. I had a bit of an head start on knowing about this advice, however, as I had a bad cat allergy and had the unfortunate luck of marrying a cat lover. :) Much sniffling and eye watering ensued. However, I noted the sudden loss of severe symptoms a month or so in. We were catless for years again until our kids were born, then we added another cat to the house. My allergies were minimal this time, but my son’s were massive: hives, clogged sinuses, etc. etc. We had hard discussions, but decided to wait and see for a few months. After about one week, the cat was sleeping on his bed and his allergies were far less noticeable, and a month later they were gone.

My son also had peanut allergies, and immunologists are now doing the same thing, exposing kids in a controlled way to constant peanut proteins so that they can adjust sensitivity.

Basically, in my mind, it all just reinforces the whole “a pet is a forever decision” and things like the “making kids sick” is typically a non-issue in the face of the life of a pet.

Ron

The Issues of Spay and Neuter

Friday, August 28th, 2009

It is “common knowledge” that you should spay or neuter your dog to prevent a raft of issues, from saving your male dog from certain death from testicular or prostate cancer, to the almost certain demise of your bitch to mammary tumors or pyometra. Then, of course, there’s the requirement that a dog (especially males) MUST be neutered to eliminate aggression issues (as a total aside, this is likely untrue, as this CO study shows no statistical difference in bites between neutered and non-neutered dogs). Many of us have visited the vets office, and have been asked the not-so-open ended question, “When exactly WILL you want to schedule an appointment to have your dog ‘fixed’?”

It may vary by country or region, but in my part of Canada, people who do not spay or neuter are considered negligent or neglectful, cheap, or somehow oddly unable to remove a dogs “bits” due to some misguided weak-kneed inability to “do the right thing” because it makes them queasy. There may be a bit of slack given to “legitimate breeders”, but not a lot.

The question is rarely asked, however, “is the ‘common knowledge’ actually based on science?”

In 2007 (a number of vet visits ago :) ) Laura J. Sanborn at Rutgers University did a rather comprehensive review of 50 peer reviewed studies, and the introduction shows how the data is at odds with popular lore:

More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

I find it interesting that vets either do not seem to have access to this study, or have apparently not heeded it. In fact, I have postulated that there is a coincident relationship between a veterinarians’ desire to get you to spay and neuter and the problem of total lack of revenue that a dog owner poses outside of the typical vaccination visit. That’s a bit “conspiracy theory” like, but it seems plausible. I suspect, however, that it’s really just the case that — with the prevalence of information on the internet that is mired in the old thinking — they are not seeing any demand to reduce the number of operations.

As an example of this here is an ASPCA link showing the top 10 reasons for spay/neuter (my comments are in red below each):

Not convinced yet? Check out our handy—and persuasive—list of the top 10 reasons to spay or neuter your pet!

1. Your female pet will live a longer, healthier life.
Spaying helps prevent uterine infections and breast cancer, which is fatal in about 50 percent of dogs and 90 percent of cats. Spaying your pet before her first heat offers the best protection from these diseases.

Apparently not that clear cut, according to the above study.

2. Neutering provides major health benefits for your male.
Besides preventing unwanted litters, neutering your male companion prevents testicular cancer, if done before six months of age.

Half true, at best: they conveniently fail to point out the potential detriments, which actually seem to outweigh the positives.

3. Your spayed female won’t go into heat.
While cycles can vary, female felines usually go into heat four to five days every three weeks during breeding season. In an effort to advertise for mates, they’ll yowl and urinate more frequently—sometimes all over the house!

True. (Finally :) ). Though a little bit dramatic, there, no? I guess that was more of a cat related note, tho’.

4. Your male dog won’t want to roam away from home.
An intact male will do just about anything to find a mate! That includes digging his way under the fence and making like Houdini to escape from the house. And once he’s free to roam, he risks injury in traffic and fights with other males.

Orthogonal (not related) really: If you have a large breed, such as a Boerboel, if he roams you are probably being a negligent owner. Whether they roam with or without intact sexual organs is functionally irrelevant to the problem.

5. Your neutered male will be much better behaved.
Neutered cats and dogs focus their attention on their human families. On the other hand, unneutered dogs and cats may mark their territory by spraying strong-smelling urine all over the house. Many aggression problems can be avoided by early neutering.

Um. Look, I’m not neutered, and I do a pretty good job of focusing my attention on my family. :)

I think this is similar to the above: If you cannot control your dog to stop “marking” you have a training issue, not a medical one (and ask around with people in the dog world who have Boerboels or other large breeds and see how many have dogs that “mark” within the house — after a couple of corrections, anyway. I don’t think they’d get away with that behavior very long. :P )

6. Spaying or neutering will NOT make your pet fat.
Don’t use that old excuse! Lack of exercise and overfeeding will cause your pet to pack on the extra pounds—not neutering. Your pet will remain fit and trim as long as you continue to provide exercise and monitor food intake.

Fair enough – what they are saying is that ya, drive will drop, so modify food intake. That works.

7. It is highly cost-effective.
The cost of your pet’s spay/neuter surgery is a lot less than the cost of having and caring for a litter. It also beats the cost of treatment when your unneutered tom escapes and gets into fights with the neighborhood stray!

True, assuming you’re negligent enough to let your animals wander, again.

8. Spaying and neutering your pet is good for the community.
Stray animals pose a real problem in many parts of the country. They can prey on wildlife, cause car accidents, damage the local fauna and frighten children. Spaying and neutering packs a powerful punch in reducing the number of animals on the streets.

This is actually a point I sort of see: Basically (and this is a theme to a few of my answers) if you’re not astute enough to keep control of your animals, you may want to either do a spay/neuter, or — better yet — get a fish tank and some goldfish. They are easier to control, and if you can keep them alive for a few years, move up to a gerbil, etc.

9. Your pet doesn’t need to have a litter for your children to learn about the miracle of birth.
Letting your pet produce offspring you have no intention of keeping is not a good lesson for your children—especially when so many unwanted animals end up in shelters. There are tons of books and videos available to teach your children about birth in a more responsible way.

Absolutely true. There are enough dogs and cats out there, we don’t need random breeding just to do a show kids what they can see on YouTube, or at a breeder’s.

10. Spaying and neutering helps fight pet overpopulation.
Every year, millions of cats and dogs of all ages and breeds are euthanized or suffer as strays. These high numbers are the result of unplanned litters that could have been prevented by spaying or neutering.

Absolutely true. Same as above.

I guess my point in the above is that — assuming you’re an owner or prospective owner of a breed as substantial as a Boerboel — the CONTROL of said dog is more important than the medical altering of that dog. The side effects of the procedures are — according to the study — not insignificant, and if you’re doing it mostly because you’re expecting a magic reduction in aggression or because that will make them suddenly a “better dog”, it may not work out as expected. As for health effects, read carefully and evaluate how it applies to you.

From the conclusions of the study:

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may  exceed the associated health problems in many (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the  odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the dog and the relative risk  of various diseases in the different breeds.
The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

Consider taking this information to the vets office with you, and if you are going to spay/neuter, consider waiting until the age of two when bone growth, etc. will have stabilized.

[edited 20090828 3:07 - to redo meandering conclusion slightly :) ]

Running with Dogs

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

I remember coming home once to the clicheic dog-shredded living room, as seen on TV — with the smiley, happy dog who was so proud of that mess wagging a tail in the middle of it. My wife was already a bit less of a dog lover than I was, so to know that her very carefully chosen throw cushions, her magazines, even her (oh noes!) shoes, had been diced into little gooey bits all over the house — meant that for me to keep myself out of the dog house, I knew I would have to do … something with his energy.

That’s when I started running with dogs.

I didn’t really know what I was doing, so here are some pointers I developed:

  • Do not run any significant distance with dogs under 12 months. I have not seen any cited research on this, but the thinking is that that sort of repetitive exercise is allegedly bad for pups. Why risk it?
  • The human “10% rule” is probably good for dogs, too. With human running training, it is often cited that you need to be careful to reduce injuries by only increasing distance or intensity by 10% per week. With dogs, they are arguably better able to recover, thus you can probably increase this a bit, but it’s still a good guideline
  • Recovery is Important. I recall reading in running literature that human sports studies have pegged recovery time at 36-48 hours for muscles and connective tissues. I suspect that dogs are quicker to recover, but the point is, they need time, too.
  • Heat and Dehydration Kills. I actually do not know the point where a dog is at the edge of heat exhaustion, but having been at that edge myself during training, I know that it’s a fine line, easily crossed. With my dogs, I make a point of not taking risks. If it’s hot, we may run a bit, but I have a rural route that allows me to incorporate some “water features” (that is, ponds and/or lakes) within less than a couple KMs (a mile). I have longer haired breeds, who I would not allow out above certain temperatures. On the other hand the Boerboels are not as heat coddled, but they also are not as endurance adapted as some other breeds, so I don’t tend to go as far with them in distance.
  • Listen to your dog. Dogs are subtle. If they’re tired or sore, they often keep that information “close to the chest”: Watch them carefully for limps, lagging, stress. Just stop. It’s not important enough to take a risk with them.
  • Let dogs be dogs. While you may need to train for a 5k race, they need to follow their own training levels, and go pee, too. I tend to allocate break time in a couple points of the run, often at the same places so they know not to attempt to stop early, etc.
  • Clean up after your pets. I take bags, but when you’re running, what to do with them?? Either bring a backpack (and make sure that bag is not leaky. :P ) or I try to “depot” the bag along the route to be picked up on the way back, etc. (easier for me to do due to rural routes). When I lived in the city, I had plotted paths that took me past city garbages, to allow a minimal run with a lumpy bag.
  • If you need to do hill repeats, etc. consider tying up your dog to give them a break. I will take my dogs to a hill, tie the older, out of shape ones up, take the younger ones, and start the repeats, then, as the dogs get tired, tie them up, too, and repeat alone. Only works if you can tie them up safely, etc.
  • Don’t run with more than two dogs. I know others do, but for big dogs like Boerboels, three is just not managable for me when a rabbit runs across the path, etc. I take turns, thus giving me more of a workout than the dogs, too.
  • Have fun. I do my more serious training without a dog. I love my dogs, but it’s not fair to them to do time trials with me. There’s always another time to take them and have fun with them.

This did eventually help calm my destructo dog, but then again, it was also me who got a lot of exercise, so maybe my calm (tired?) attitude calmed him down… No matter, we had fun, and my wife got to go shopping for new shoes, so it all worked out.

:)